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Fiesta Mk6 Performance Cams
- dr_hillmann
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readie si wrote: yup my mistake... they are similar but it seems in short a duratec is a revamped zetec, duratecs are built soley from alloy where as the zetec is an iron block with an alloy head, this makes the duratec lighter. the other main differance is using a cam chain rather than a cam belt
inlet and exhaust are on the opposite sides to the zetec as well
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- dr_hillmann
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lloydey--10 wrote: Engine Change i would go for then Drop a HUGE turbo on the sideee
Loadsaa powerr whoooppp
tbh i dont wanna make it rediculous, gonna get a second car in a few years for that, cos im gonna have to use this every day for commuting, so dont want it to be a pain
i fancy a fiesta st as a second car, and then make a monster outta that
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- readie si
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have u thorght of just gettin a dream science re-map? can add alot of poke to the bigger engines so should do the trick on yours.
youve already got a decent air filter and exaust fitted havent you?
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- dr_hillmann
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readie si wrote: fair play at least your sensible about it lol i spend a fortune on fuel
have u thorght of just gettin a dream science re-map? can add alot of poke to the bigger engines so should do the trick on yours.
youve already got a decent air filter and exaust fitted havent you?
standard exhaust still! and standard air filter for the next week
gonna have a motorbike filter fitted direct to the throttle body by next week, no pipe = no bends = no restriction!
and if its poo ill take it off
pretty pricey arent they those remaps? whats the benefits?
and my engine most of the potential is lost in both the manifs
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- readie si
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with a decent re-map you will get that extra poke your after, the car will feel more responsive
im not sure what can be done to a 1400 <!-- s:? --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_e_confused.gif" alt="
performance 3000 or puma speed would be the lads to ring. im thinkin rather than go with cams the 1400 and 1600 lumps are both zetec se lumps, might be worth askin if a 1600 head would fit on to your 1400? or if 1600 cams pulleys and throttle bodie will fit? aswell find out if the injectors can be uprated... then remap it! A CUSTOM RE-MAP from dream science will make the engine run sweet as a nut. youve not uprated the ecu have you? so at the minuet youve got an air filter suckin in too much air, ur ecu is compensating for this by throwing in extra fuel, but not neccesairilly the correct amount, a re-map will sort that out giving you the correct fuel/air mixture and will obtain the maximum power gain from whatever mods you carry out
ive got a fast ford mag somwhere containg a feature on two race prepped 1400 zetec fez's if i find it ill type up the spec, might give you some insperation <!-- s;-) --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_e_wink.gif" alt="
failing all this get 100 bhp shot of nos installed <!-- s:twisted: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_twisted.gif" alt="
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- readie si
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dr_hillmann wrote:
readie si wrote: fair play at least your sensible about it lol i spend a fortune on fuel
have u thorght of just gettin a dream science re-map? can add alot of poke to the bigger engines so should do the trick on yours.
youve already got a decent air filter and exaust fitted havent you?
standard exhaust still! and standard air filter for the next week
gonna have a motorbike filter fitted direct to the throttle body by next week, no pipe = no bends = no restriction!
and if its poo ill take it off
pretty pricey arent they those remaps? whats the benefits?
and my engine most of the potential is lost in both the manifs
huh? direct to the throttle body housing??? so your'l be taking the maf sensor out of the equation????? itl run like shit if it hasnt got a maf on it................
right ive pinched this off fast fords tuning guide this is what u need to know
ZETEC
Good Points: There are
millions around so they’re
cheap to buy from a salvage
yard. The later black-top brought
many small improvements over
the earlier silver-top models. The
head flows well and gives great
mid-range torque. The bottom
end is good for 7000 rpm as
standard and is pretty hard to
break. The bottom end is good for
big miles.
Bad points: These have been
known to shear a con-rod bolt
or two. Well worth whipping the
sump off and fitting ARP units.
As a standard unit it also has a
restrictive intake manifold system
that is worth getting rid of for
something more free-flowing if
you want more power.
Tuning Stage 1: The first thing
to do, as with most production
engines, is to get yourself a good
free-flowing air filter, a decent
exhaust and a good chip. These
should see you with around a
Z Is For
Zetec & SE
genuine 15 bhp improvement.
Cost: £450
Stage 2: Cams and some light
headwork can see you enjoying
an additional 10 bhp on top of
Stage 1, but beware, cams on
these engines tend to spoil the
mid-range quite a lot. Cost: £600
Stage 3: The inlet system has
to go if you want more power, so
whip it all off and fit some nice
throaty-sounding throttle bodies
and a decent management
system. Once you have throttle
bodies and the ability to rev
the engine hard, it’s possible to
extract over 200 bhp from this
Zetec E Power unit. Cost: £2000
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